Akro Agate Art Association.  – J. Bourque, Box 758 – Salem NH 03079

The Akro Agate Collectors Club -  10 Bailey Street   Clarksburg WV 26301

American Carnival Glass Association – PO Box 235   Littlestown PA 17340

American Cut Glass Assoc. – PO Box 482   Ramona CA 92065

Antique & Art Glass Salt Shaker Collectors Society. Contact: AAGSSCS, 2832 Rapidan Trail, Maitland, FL 32751

Antique Bottle Coll. of N FL, Inc. meets 1st Mon except July & Dec., Faith Lutheran Church, Jacksonville. Contact: E. Biggs 904-786-8487

Antique/Art Glass Salt Shaker Collectors -  1775 Lakeview Drive   Zeeland MI 49464

Blenko Collectors Society -  PO Box 1096 – Kermit WV 25674  Contact Tammy   blenkocollectors@aol.com

Online Blenko Museum

Canadian Depression Glass Association. Contact: Walter Lemiski, 119 Wexford Rd., Brampton, Ontario Can. L6Z 2T5. 905-846-2835; E-mail: cdga@home.com

Collectible Carnival Glass Association - 2360 N. Old S R 9   Columbus IN 47203

Collector of Findlay Glass – PO Box 256  Findlay OH 45839

The Corning Museum of Glass - One Museum Way  Corning NY 14830

Custard Glass Collectors Society – 591 SW Duxbury Avenue  Port St. Lucie, FL 34983

Czechoslovakian Collectors Association (CCA). Contact person Cheryl Goyda, Box 137, Hopeland, PA. 17533 Phone: 717-738-2678, Web site: www.czechcollectors.org<

Early American Glass Club – 2204 East 27th Street, Tulsa OK   estrelle1@cox.net

Early American Pattern Glass Society – PO Box 266  Colesburg IA 52035

European Glass Collectors 

Fairy Lamp Collectors Club – Jim & Pat Sapp, P.O. Box 438, Pine, CO  80470

Fenton Art Glass Collectors – PO Box 384   Williamstown WV 26187

 Located in Ohio, their trademark B inside a diamond, can be seen on clowns, animals, pie vents, covered dishes, glass slippers and several other specialty glassware handed down from generation to generation.

A video on You-Tube shows the manufacture of these adorable figurines. The company was originally Degenhart Glass until Bernard Boyd bought it in 1978. Two manufacturing practices that make the Boyd collectible glassware so sought after is that the mold mark changes every five years and that no color is ever repeated in a mold.

This makes the pieces easier to identify and grade for their collectability, resulting in a higher value for earlier pieces.

The first item Boyd made, the forget me not toothpick holder still can be found in various sites including EBay; it comes in six different colors. The pie vents are perhaps one of the neatest figurines available, they are made to let the steam vent from your pie as it is baking. Covered salt containers can be found in bunny, chick, duck, Scottie dog and turkey shapes.

The doll figurines are also very popular ranging from colonial style, to Amish and several different types named after Boyd family members.

Chuckles, Freddie and Virgil are all clown figurines, some with unique features or hand painted. There are only three artists who handle the hand painted glassware, so that makes each one unique and more desirable in building your collection. Easter eggs as well as the covered chicken, chick and duck patterns are all very popular in the spring and the Angel series, first made in 1995, is currently in the second series and was soon followed by the Li’l Angel in 2002.

In addition to being great collectibles, the Boyd pressed glass figurines are made with high standards, not like some of the large companies which have fully automated presses and moulds, the Boyd collectibles have been made the same way for generations and hopefully they will continue to be made that way for the delight of future collectibles.

The Fostoria Glass Company, makers of those beautiful commemorative bells, much to everyones amazement, didn’t even begin to offer them until the mid seventies.

Although they made gorgeous wedding bells, bells that would coordinate with some of their main designs and major colors, if you take a walk through the catalogs tht Fostoria puts out, you’re going to find that there are no bells appearing in them until about 1976-1977, when the first bells showed up, that matched four of their current patterns, the Richmond, Navarre, Sheffield and serenity.

Fostoria made bells for Christmas, Mother’s Day, Valentine’s Day, weddings, and other special occasions. They also made bells to coordinate with some of their major designs. Serenity came in yellow, blue and crystal. Navarre bells were in pink, blue and crystal.

January 1979′s catalog also offers a Mother’s Day bell which was made of an especially beautiful and thin blown crystal, with a picture of a child being held by his mother etched in an oval area that was beautifully framed by flowers with the date and holiday etched above it.

Likewise, in 1979, the Wedding bells began to be available, which were quite unusual in their making, wtih the top part of the bell being the brides upper portion and the bell area the flaring of the skirt of the bridal gown.

The very soft mistlike finish covered the top and about half of the skirt of the bell, fading out reminiscent of a bridal veil.

1981 saw a ruby bell offered with a "Twas the Night Before Christmas," theme with a frosted handle that was of crystal, and was one of four tht was limited edition, however it was the only one, to our knowledge tht was made with the crystal prior to Fostorias factory ceasing production.

According to one expert, there is also another 1977 bell which I"ve not seen or found that was a winter scene, wtih a horse drawn sleigh and pine trees that is dated in 1977, but I can not seem to find pictures or listing of it.

Fostoria bells have become prized collectors items for many who love Fostoria in all its glory, and since the bells were made for so relatively few years, they are in great demand. If you have one, hang on to it and if you’re looking be prepared to pay a price that could range from 15-50 dollars if not more..

For many years depression glass has been reproduced by companies all over the world. Some of the patterns and things you may see from those companies are listed below. (We gratefully acknowledge the research work of the Glass Reproduction website, as well as About.com  for some of this information).

Adam
Butter dish- on the green reproduction you will see that the veins in the leaves on lid do not join or touch in center of leaf, bottom: on the old, large leaves point to center of each side (north, south, east, west) on the reproduction, they point off center (northeast, etc) very poor mold quality will show up  on both top and bottom.

Avocado
Avocado was originally made in pink, green and crystal: white pitcher & tumbler sets  were made by Indiana Glass in the 1950’s. Yellow, red, blue, amethyst and frosted colors are all reproductions which were made by Tiara  from 1974 through the 1980’s. Pink and green were also made by Tiara but are different from the original colors as follows: new pink has an orange-ish tint rather than the soft pink of the old color. The newer  green is darker than the original one was.

Baltimore pear
Compote, marked with a paper label on the base, made in France.

Cameo
The Shakers have been made in green, pink and cobalt.  On the reproductions the patternis weak,  with a little too much glass in the bottom of shaker, and additionally the  cobalt was never originally made. Above the foot is filled in with about 1/4-1/2 of glass. Mosser company has made a line of children’s miniature sets (called ‘the Jennifer line’) with the cameo pattern. As children’s dishes were never made, these miniatures don’t present a problem telling reproductions from originals.

Cherry blossom
The following pieces have been reproduced in any or all of these colors: pink, green, light blue, delphite, cobalt, red and iridized colors. The only original colors that were made were the pink, green and delphite, and some of these reproductions are quite good so they may fool you. The round 2 handled tray, footed cake plate, cereal bowl, footed tumbler, butter dish and a divided platter are among those things that have been reproduced. As a general rule you’re going to find that the reproduction pieces are less carefully molded, with the pattern more crudely in place, branches and leaves on the blossom pattern will lack the original serrated texture of the leaves and the bark of the branch. The flowers will not look as detailed to you. The pieces are also somewhat heavier in glass than the originals.

Columbia
Juice glasses will be marked “France”

Floral Poinsettia
These shakers can be found in colbalt blue, red and deep green, which are all reproductions as none of those colors were made. The pink however was made originally and the pink reproduction is very close to that original color.
The reproduction shakers will give you a continuous threading on the screw on top, while the older one will have a pair of threads that will end prior to the mold seams.

Additionally, you will find that the pattern is on top of the base on the new shakers and under the base on the old ones, so that you have to turn them over to see the base pattern.

Florentine 1
Shakers have been found in pink, red, and cobalt. The pattern is very badly done, red & cobalt are not original colors.

Florentine 2
Pitcher & tumbler sets in red, dark green, cobalt, and two different pinks have been made. None of these colors were originally made.

Iris & herringbone
The reproduction iris & herringbone, 6?, crystal, water tumblers, and the originals are both the exact same size. They both have the smooth rays on the foot. Although the repro’s ray edges may be just slightly sharper than on the originals, but it’s probably way too close for the novice collector to tell the difference. The herringbone pattern is one key. It’s not even near as clear, sharp and vivid as on the originals. But still close enough to fool even a good eye.
Now…just like on the 6 1/2? ice tea tumbler, one quick way to tell the difference is, flip your tumbler upside down. Can you see the “mold” line at all on the foot? On the originals, the “mold” line is “very” visible when you look at it from this perspective. However, with the reproduction tumbler, if you have a very good eye and or an magnifying glass, you might could see the “mold” line when looking at it from the bottom side. If you have to look that hard to see it, it’s probably an reproduction.

One other way to tell is, on the original 6? water tumbler, just like on the original 6 1/2? ice tea tumbler, there are (4) sides to each of these tumblers. Let me explain. There are (4) iris flower designs. The two opposite each other should be exactly the same identical design, matching each other perfectly. If there’s any difference at all, then it’s probably an reproduction.

You can’t tell the difference between the two by feeling the hole in the bottom of the tumbler foot. They both have the exact same type and style of hole in them both, with the exact same number of rays on the foot as well.

One sure fire way to tell if your 6? water tumbler is the “real deal” or not is, just to the right of the iris flower design, you have a very long stem, kind of thick one, coming from the bottom of the tumbler to the top edge of the flower on the right side of the flower, curving slightly to the left at the top as it ends. It has been crossed, or x ‘ed towards the top of the stem, with a partial stem. If you turn the tumbler to the exact opposite side it should match exactly. If it doesn’t and it’s only half x’ed, or not x’ed at all, it’s an reproduction. The opposing sides will not match this side, the pattern is different, but should match each other exactly perfectly as well.

Lorain
In the 1950’s, the footed sherbet with an open lace edge was produced in milk glass and avocado for use as a florist bowl – colors never made during the depression. These were probably made by anchor hocking instead of indiana – who produced lorain originally – as some have been found with hocking’s paper labels.

Madrid
In 1976, federal reissued this pattern for the bicentennial under the name “recollection”. Pieces were made in amber, but marked with a 76 in the design to distinguish old from new. Indiana glass bought the molds when federal closed, removed the 76 and made crystal. Since then, pieces have been made in blue, pink and a light ‘coke bottle green-blue’ color. The new blue is brighter than the original color, the new pink is too light. Many pieces have been made, some by combining two old items into a new one: the candlestick on a 10 inch plate became the pedestal cake stand; a tumbler on the candlestick base is sold as a hurricane lamp/vase, and the butter dish on the candlestick makes the footed candy dish. Reproductions of old pieces tend to be too heavy, the wrong color and sloppily molded. Study your depression glass encyclopedia so you know what’s original and what’s not.

Manhattan
Similar to manhattan, anchor hocking produced ‘park avenue’ from 1987-93 and then again in the late 1990’s in crystal and light ’sapphire blue.’ light blue was never made, and shapes were changed so as to maintain the integrity of the original crystal pieces. If you find something that’s not listed in the depression glass encyclopedias, it’s part of the park avenue line not manhattan.

Mayfair (open rose)
Cookie jars, shot glasses, small juice pitchers and salt/pepper shakers have been reproduced in pink (more orange than the original, green (both too dark and the wrong shade), cobalt, amethyst, red, amberina, and pink slag. The pattern is very weak on all items; pitcher and cookie bottoms lack the circular mold mark on the bottom, the shots have too much glass in the bottom.

Miss America
Reproduced in pink, green( wrong shade) red amberina, cobalt, crystal and ice blue as follows: repro flat tumblers have 2 mold seams instead of 4. Repro pitchers are missing the ice lip and the ‘hump’ in the top edge that old pitchers have by the handle to help grasp when pouring. New shakers are 3 1/4 inch tall and have too much glass on the inside – old are 3 3/8 inch tall and fill all the way to the bottom with salt. New butter dishes have a lump of glass sticking out (convex) under the knob; old are concave (curved in).

Pineapple & floral (no 618)
Indiana reissued the diamond shaped comport and the 7 inch bowl in pink, cobalt, avocado, and crystal with sprayed on colors. Only crystal was originally made so the other colors are no problem. Both items tend to be roughly molded and heavier than the originals. The new 7 inch bowls also have smooth rims instead of the wavy rim that the old bowls have.

Princess
Candy jars and shakers have shown up in cobalt, amber, light blue, pink and green. Both are poor quality, badly molded with bubbles and a greasy feel to the glass. The colors are wrong and some are marked ‘china’ with a paper label.

Pyramid (no.610)
In 1974-5, indiana produced the berry bowl, 4 part relish, and tumbler, in blue and black as part of their tiara line. These colors were never made originally.

Royal lace
The cookie jar, juice and water tumbler have been reproduced in cobalt blue. Cookie jar: the mold is very poor, with lots of bubbles in the glass and a very weak pattern. Old lids should have a mod seam running across the knob (divides the lid into 2 halves.) New ones are missing this seam. Tumblers: some are missing the design in the base. Thicker glass and shorter than the originals with too much glass in the bottom of the tumbler.

Sharon
Reproduction items in pink, dark green, blue, light green, opalescent blue, red and dark amber have shown up. Butter dish, covered candy, cheese dish, sugar & creamer, salt & pepper all have been made and can be found with “made in taiwan” labels. As only amber, pink and light green are original colors, they are the only ones to pose a problem for collectors. New sharon is poorly molded, too thick with a greasy feel and lots of bubbles in the glass. The knobs on the butter, cheese and candy lids are too high – look stretched instead of the squat, hard to grasp older pieces. The pattern on the shakers does not look like roses; instead it looks like a pinwheel. The sugar & creamer are too light and of such bad quality that they are obviously new.

Thistle
Butter dish, pitcher and tumbler.

Bubble/ruby
Anchor hocking reissued the 8 inch and 4 1/2 inch bowls in ruby. Most are marked with the anchor trademark. Hocking has also produced the ashtray, punch cups and some vases recently – all marked with the anchor trademark.

Charm
Charm reissue: charm was originally made by anchor hocking from 1950 to 1954. Complete settings – all 11 pieces – could be purchased in jadite(opaque green), azurite(opaque blue), and forest green. A 5 piece luncheon service that included the cup, saucer, 8 3/8 inch plate, 4 3/4 inch bowl and 7 3/8 inch bowl was also produced in royal ruby during this time. Occasionally, a piece of charm will turn up in white or ivory but, as these colors were not part of the normal production, they remain oddities to highlight collections of the other colors.
Charm’s square shape is very popular with today’s collectors. So great is the demand for the original issue, that anchor hocking has brought the charm shape back for the new millennium with the name “union square contemporary glass service.” touted as “an updated version of a design from the 1950’s to bring style to your table,” hocking has brought back this popular pattern. But collectors have no need to fear being taken by repros pretending to be the real thing: union square is only available in crystal(clear glass), a color that was not produced in the 1950’s. Five items are currently being sold: three sizes of bowls(4 3/4?, 6? and 8 3/4?) a 9 inch plate and a 12 inch square platter. These new items are slightly larger than the comparable original issue pieces, and the square platter is an item that is completely new to the ‘charm’ line. In the past, hocking has maintained the integrity of their older glass when they re-introduce patterns from the past. Hopefully, they will continue this practice of ‘responsible reproduction’ with union square and stay away from the original colors if they expand the line.

Early american presscut
A powder jars with lid in two sizes – 4 inch and 5 inch – have turned up. This item was never made by anchor hocking, and they are marked “italy” in the glass on both top and bottom

English hobnail
The hexagonal creamer & sugar and the oval pickle dish are being made by brooke glass and marked with a circular westmoreland glass mark. They are of very poor quality when compared to the original. The small footed nut cups are also found in many colors, some marked with an “s”, and are again not the quality of westmoreland originals.

Heritage
Both the large and small berry bowls have been reproduced for mccrory’s in amber, crystal, and an avocado-ish green. Marked with mc in the center, they are of very poor quality and mold and are easy to spot.

Jade-ite
Both martha stewart and cracker barrel stores have their own lines of jadite glass – some marked, some not. Buy from someone you trust and study your books so you know what was originally made!

Laurel (fireking)
A cup and saucer/plate (no cup ring) have turned up in a translucent green that is supposed to look like jadite. The color is too light and nothing like fire king jadite. Both pieces are marked with a diamond shape, and the numbers 402 and 4 on the bottom.

Paneled grape
Summit art glass is producing the large canister in an orange slag – never originally made by westmoreland – and milk glass. They do have the wg mark on both top and bottom, but the mold is very poor on the milk glass and easy to spot.
Sandwich – anchor hocking
The cookie jar in crystal has been recently reproduced. These are sold in catalogs with nut/candy assortments, especially around the holidays. The repro jar is larger than the original – 10 1/4 inches tall, 5 1/2 inch opening and 22 inch diameter at the widest part of the jar. The old cookie jar is 9 1/4 inches tall, 4 7/8 inch at the opening and 19 inches in diameter at the widest part. Those extra inches make the new jars seem huge.
Sandwich – indiana
Indiana reissued their sandwich pattern as part of the tiara line. Tiara exclusives was sold at home parties and touted as ‘tomorrow’s collectible glass – made from original molds.’ this basically means that they made new glass using old molds, not that the glass was old. Amber, crystal, smoky blue, teal, chantilly green, milk, and red were all produced. Most of the crystal and all the amber you find today will have been made since 1970.

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Is my glassware authentic or is my glassware reproduction? This is a question thats of paramount importance for many collectors and glass ware enthusiasts.

There isn’t a thing in the world wrong with reproduction glassware, so long as its apparent to the collector that he or she is getting reproduction glassware. When it isn’t made clear to you then it becomes problematic.

Just Glass has put together a list of the most common reproductions in glassware that are available to the buyer as well as how to spot the fact that what you’re buying is a reproduction and not necessarily an original product.

In this series of items Just Glass Online examines the articles that have been reproduced, how you can tel that the glassware may be a reproduction and what to look for to show you whats what in the glass ware world.

Art Glass

There are several sites that sell reproduced French Cameo Glass or Tiffany style lamps. These are in no way purported to be anything but a reproduction, with the company making that clear to the buyer. Taking a look at them will give you a heads up on what you’re viewing and what to look for to spot a reproduction however.

Tiffany Lamps.com

Oriental Vases:

The site listed below is one which openly states that they are reproducing oriental vases. The reproductions are spotted, somewhat like you might expect to see in Czech glassware products. They also have far less depth to them then you would expect in the genuine article. The authentic oriental will have the areas of color much larger and  the colors will appear quite nearly to flow together. Keep in mind that in oriental, the color is inside the glass, cased in clear. The reproductions have the color right on the surface.

Talaria Enterprises

If you’re interested in Depression Glass and Reproductions, Please see our Depression Glass Reproductions article, second in the Reproductions series, or the third item, which covers, Miscellaneous Glass Reproductions.

Tiffany Lamps and Oriental Vase Reproductions

Fine crystal glassware by Anton Kusak.

Kusack Fine Crystal came into being with the dreams of a young man from Moravia who traveled to the city of Seattle.

This youthful glassmaker had a vision about what he wanted to do. Glassware and cut crystal was his passion.

Anton Kusak believed that great designs and a superior quality product would be a hit and that it would give he and his wife and family the lifestyle that they wanted from America.

His product was notably superior in both design and craftsmanship and Kusak Fine Crystal was a success not only in Seattle, but the  world over.

The company is still family owned and operated, having prospered under the auspices of the father, then the son, for nearly fifty years, and today it is run by the original glassmakers grandson, Chuck, since the mid seventies.

Kusack glass vase.

Their commitment to excellence in what they make and cut hasn’t diminished an ounce over the years and Kusak Fine Crystal is noted the world over for the quality of the crystal stemware, glassware and lamps they offer, but what truly struck us was the magnificence of the chandeliers that are produced here.

Kusak chandelier

While they are of course a bit more costly, take a look at what your money is buying..not just the sparkle of the crystal … the elegance of any room in which it resides, but a little piece of history too.

Of course Kusak also produces the most beautiful crystal stemware, wine serving sets, and amazing vases, each lovingly cut and beautifully styled.

The elegance of the pieces speaks for  itself and they will in fact be the collectors items you’ve been looking for given the craftsmanship.

If you’re in the market for something new and exciting, take a look at Kusak Fine Crystal.

They’ve got another first with their Burmese glass. The process, simplified, is that they add real gold to the glass which gives it a delicate blush and it rapidly became a favorite and remains so more than thirty years later.

Burmese Glass By Fenton

The only company to successfully replicated that formula in more modern days has been Fenton Glass. In 1970 they introduced their Burmese glass and continue to produce it today.

Not highly priced, it is rapidly becoming highly Prized and is among the most popular of Fentons glassware, as well as being among the most beautiful.
The images of Burmese glass seen here, from the Fenton site, will give you ample reason for why the glass is so well received by collectors the world over.
If you’re in the market for something new to collect.. check out Fentons Burmese glass.

How expensive is collecting glassware?

 Thats a question a lot of people have and its a reasonable one in the economy we’re facing now.
Glassware, like any other hobby, can be as expensive or as inexpensive as you choose to make it, but many people think that simply because they are on a budget, that its going to be cost prohibitive. Nothing could be further from the truth.
Let’s face it, nowadays we’re all on a budget.

Definitely if you want to collect some types of glassware,or some single variety of a given company, you’re going to pay a premium price.

For example, Fostoria or Fentonware, on the whole, are not cost prohibitive to collect, however some parts of the Fostoria collectibles will be out of range for many of us who operate on a fixed income or a budget as the biggest percentage of the world does.
Glassware can be cheap, to very very expensive to collect.

Some types of glassware were made for very long time spans and a great deal of it was produced, meaning thats its available in abundant supply so the cost will likely be lower than those which were made for only a year or so.

Then too, add in the ignorance about what you’ve got factor and you may find a piece thats very reasonable when in fact it shouldn’t be, so don’t limit yourself to seeking out only those things that you believe are within your range.

I personally purchased a Lefton China teapot just two months ago, the violet chintz pattern that I was in love with. This retails in most places for about 100 dollars US, but I found one on E-bay of all places, for about 20 dollars, with just 10 dollars for shipping. Needless to say, I snapped it up and was thrilled.

Glassware will range from 3 to 5 dollars, up to many thousands depending on what you want and what you have to spend.

The moral is, don’t let cost prevent you from beginning a new hobby that you may find enjoyable. Buy one piece per month, or one piece per three months if need be, and choose more carefully.
Additionally, don’t assume that simply because you only make a thousand dollars a month, that you’re not able to begin a collection that will be a delight to you and may actually contain some lovely pieces over time.

Waterford-Wedgwood, a company which  conjoined two powerhouses in crystal and china, collectibles of all varieties, tonight seeks protection from creditors, a company which was formed in mid seventeen hundreds.

While it may seem that with the downturn in the economy, company that are new and untried, will likely fail, it does seem disheartening that companies such as these, which have survived mega conflicts, wars, depressions and recessions, taken virtually every kind of hit on their corporate chin and not faltered, should fail for nothing less than a bad economy.

The company, who also purchased Royal Doulton in 2005, has high hopes that they can be purchased and restructured. So do we.

Other companies to fall by the wayside in recent months include Spode, the manufacturers of fine glassware, and in the not too distant past, we’ve seen Diamond glassware, along with Flat River Glass, Anchor Glass and multiple other companies  restructure, or hopefully restructure to give themselves a second chance.

What does that mean to you as the collector? Probably  that as with any other downturn in the economic picture, people are sticking more to necessities than to the collectible and the extra little luxuries.

It could also change what we pay and how frequently we can purchase those products so perhaps now is the time to buy that china cup and saucer you’ve been wanting.

It does seem less than kind to take advantage of the bad fortune of any company but a smart collector will grab  one or two of their products when the company’s future is uncertain.

 Libbey Glass Company began their business life named the New England Glass Company.
They produced a wide variety of glassware, and in the end expanded their business to sheet glass and windshields, but are more widely known for their cut glass and shaped drinking glasses.

The company was, in the beginning producing multiple items including mercury glass, colored art glass, pressed glass, and a wide array of things like doorknobs and railroad lamps.
The glassware of the Libbey company was quite often decorated with gilding but was  also  decorated with cutting and engraving as well, making it well sought after.

Though the products were quality,  the company found itself in over their heads financially and was sold in 1877 to William Libbey, and was renamed accordingly, and when the purchaser passes away just five years later, it was passed along to his son.

 Edward Libbey moved production to Toledo, Ohio in 1888, where raw materials were readily available and was instrumental in making Toledo Ohio synonymous with glass production.

It was also at this point that the company became more lucrative, with the invention of a machine that could do a great deal of the world.. Workers were fired and the company, while popular, became less so in the immediate area.

(excerpted from History of Ohio )" The Libbey Glass Company became even more profitable after Michael Owens, an inventor from Newark, Ohio, joined the firm. Owens developed a machine that could automatically produce bottles, tumblers, and glass chimneys. This invention dramatically increased production. It also lowered manufacturing costs, as the company was able to fire workers now that machines could do the work instead."

The sword under the  old signature in Libbeys glass mark is their silent nod to the renowned city of steel,  Toledo, Spain, from which the name of the city in Ohio originates.

Libbey hired Joseph Locke in 1882, who was a designer from England to take over the design works and while he worked at Libbey he patented several items that are quite collected .  Some of those items include Peach Blow, Maize and Pomona,as well as Amberina, the Victorian era glass that offers the very distinctive amber to red shading as its trademark

 Libbey produced it  right up to the new century.
 It was a difficult type of glass to make since the red shading came from the use of actual gold and it was costly to make, making it quite expensive to produce, but it did give the company recognition world wide.
 In the 1920s, Amberina was in production again for a short time, and is signed quite often so the collector can identify it.

Libbey was  also the number one producer of what was called  Brilliant Cut glass from about 1878 to 1915 or 1916.The Brilliant cut was extremely highly leaded, and rumors had it using as much as sixty percent lead in the formula for its creatioin.
Lead softened the glass, making it easier to cut and added sparkle, weight and giving it that wonderful clarity of ring when lightly struck.
At the St. Louis World’s Fair in 1904 the company won prizes for exhibitions of their fine glass.

The war years were slim for everyone and LIbbey stuck to making hard to break glassware for hotels and restaurants, however in about 1933 they began producing fabulous stemware, which today is sought after for collection world wide.

 The designer Douglas Nash, a former Tiffany’s man, was employed to breathe life into the  market for hand crafted high-end stemware.
 Some of the new offerings of the Libbey company that were made under Nash’s tutelage included  the Art Deco  stems, among them American Prestige, Knickerbocker, Syncopation (an ice cube shaped stem, is one of the rarest to find  today), and Embassy. Embassy was an eagle-and-star etch  that was designed especially for the US Pavilion at the ’39 World’s Fair.

The Silhouette line c.1933 by Douglas Nash had a different animal decorating the stem of each type of glass including cats, greyhounds and monkeys, with each different type of glass featuring a different animal.
 The Silhouette glassware stems came with a selection of colors: black, opalescent, or frosted crystal.

The Skyscraper stemsare very collectible and one type of Nash’s designs, the Victoria cameo etch, took more than 80 hours of engraving per glass and sold for about 2000 dollars per dozen glasses. This of course wasn’t a big seller during the depression and production of it ended in 1935.
All of these glasses, including the Brilliant cut are sought after by collectors today and fortunately with the companies mark, can be readily identified.
Libbey glassware has left its mark on collectors and given us a great deal to look for.

Anniversary Glass

The references to specific materials associated with other years of marriage; however, do not seem to appear until the late 1800s. Then in 1937 the National Retail Jeweler’s Association created and distributed a more detailed list, which is when glassware became associated with the 15th year of marriage.

To this end, anything glass was considered appropriate, but some clever manufacturers began producing items that indicated the 15th anniversary in the glass itself. These are typically the pieces sought after by collectors and include such items as candleholders, wine glasses, picture frames, glass jewelry, and holiday ornaments.

The second category holds a much more diversified set of options for would-be collectors. In this category one may collect any type of glass that’s produced as anniversary memorabilia. Anniversary copies of classic bottles of soda pop (like Coke) are an excellent example, as are Disney glass pieces celebrating various dates in Disney history.

Anniversary Glass

By extension, this category may also apply to glass items made for ANY other wedding anniversary including and/or other than the 15th. Overwhelmed yet? Don’t feel badly. The diversity of this category is what makes researching it very difficult. The best advice is to determine your memorabilia modality first then seek out the anniversary pieces desired within that realm.

Glass Christmas Ornaments

As with any collection, ornaments can be very expensive or very reasonable. Many collectors include a little of both high end and low end in their repertoire for a variety of reasons. First, just because an ornament starts out at the high end does not mean it will retain its value.

Ultimately rarity determines this, and if a bunch of a specific type suddenly hit the market for whatever reason, you can loose some of your investment value. Secondly, most ornament collectors like to USE their ornaments, and being glass these items are prone to breakage. So, having pieces that display nicely without so much worry is a perfect marriage of usefulness and collecting savvy.

No matter what focus your collecting efforts take, always look at the ornament’s overall condition. Cracks, chips, paint imperfections, and stains all substantially impact “book values” of any piece.  If you’re only buying for yourself, imperfections are fine, but be aware that it will make it very hard to sell a collection in the future with those pieces included. The rule of thumb is to buy the best ornaments you can from a trusted source.

Glass Christmas Ornaments

Additionally, if there are boxes with the ornament KEEP THEM. Over time original boxes help keep your purchase save and actually improve its value compared to unboxed items. Some collectors buy two of every ornament specifically so they have one to display, and one to keep in the original unopened box.

Once in the home, take good care of those ornaments. Here, a little research comes in handy as to how to best clean and store the items every year.  It’s a good idea for insurance purposes to also maintain a complete inventory of your collectible ornaments. Those that come as gifts, label as such with the year received. Any known history also supports future sale value.

Here are the required supplies and instructions for a painted window.

The supplies can be found at any crafts stores or home improvement stores.

Painted Stained Glass Window

1. Plexiglas sheet

2. Pattern for your design

3. Leading strips

4. Craft knife

5. Liquid leading

6. Glass paint (Ceramcoat also makes glass paint) in colors of your choice

7. Toothpicks

8. Sealer for stained glass paint

9. Clear double sided tape

Measure your window and have a sheet of Plexiglas cut to fit.

You will paint on a sheet of Plexiglas then attach it to your window to get the look of stained glass. The Plexiglas is necessary because you need a flat surface or the paint will run as you are working. It also makes removal easier if you want to change your painted window in the future.

Measure the window you want painted and record the length and width. Any home improvement store can cut a sheet of Plexiglas to fit your measurements. Have the sheet cut 1/36 of an inch less than the measurements of the window. This will allow the painted sheet to be mounted properly on the window when completed.

Choose a design for your window.

Craft stores sell kits that come with patterns for windows and specify what colors to use. You may also draw your own design. Enlarge your pattern  to fit the Plexiglas sheet. Place the pattern underneath the Plexiglas and secure with tape so the paper does not move during the painting process. You will be able to see the pattern through the Plexiglas.

Place the leading strips on the outlines.

The leading strips (contain no real lead) are sticky on the back once the protective paper is removed. Place the strips on the Plexiglas carefully following the lines of the pattern underneath. Press down on the strips to make sure they are secure. Cut them with a craft knife to fit the lines of the pattern. Do not re-position the leading strips, they will lose their adhesive quality.  Seal the joints of the leading strips with liquid leading.

The liquid leading (contains no real lead) comes in a squeeze bottle with a long nozzle. Snip the end of the nozzle with scissors so you have a small hole in the end. Squeeze a small amount of the leading over the joints of the leading strips. The joints are the places where the leading strips intersect. This will give the project the look of soldered joints in real stained glass. Let the liquid leading dry for 24 hours before proceeding with the project.

Paint your design.

The glass paint also comes in plastic bottles with nozzles. Again snip the end with scissors to form a small hole in the nozzle. Do not shake the bottle before painting. The glass paint does not need to be stirred and doing so will create unwanted air bubbles. You will fill in the sections created by the leading with paint. It is best to start painting in the center of the design and work your way out so you do not lay your arm in areas already painted.  Apply sealer to your project.

Apply the sealer to your painted project as per the manufacturer’s instructions. This will protect your painted window from fingerprints and changes in humidity. Let the project dry for 24 hours before hanging in the window.

Hang the Plexiglas sheet in the window.

Place the clear double-sided tape around the edges of your window. Mount the painted Plexiglas sheet onto the tape by pressing gently around the edges. After one week you can clean the painted window with a damp cloth.

There are several means you can try to restore the original luster to the glassware if it not scratching but rather a build-up of minerals from the water, or years of washing.

Ammonia will very often strip off the cloudiness and clear up your vintage glass.

When ammonia doesn’t work, Vaseline might. Coat the dish, and leave it sit for four or five days before washing it.

Vaseline will also save nearly any dish from mineral build-up if left on for three to five days.

Denture tablets are another possibility. Use warm water to cover the dish and two polident/ efferent tablets; they very successfully eat away the stains and don’t usually harm the dishes.

Krazy Kloth, a supermarket cleaner much vaunted to remove mineral stains of hard water.

Lemon Juice, or Realemon juice, which is concentrate lemon juice and very acidic; soak the lemon juice up on a paper towel and lay the paper towel over the area to be cleaned on your plate or bowl.

Many times if nothing else works there is a chance that toothpaste will help you to take away the cloudiness, and sometimes bathroom tub cleaner such as DOW will help to clear them up.

Never use things such as drain cleaner or CLR, which will actually eat away the base glass of your dish or plate.

They are timeless, elegant and oh so easily accomplished without paying an arm and a leg to get them.

You can make that yourself, or turn your front door window into a classic entryway that really gets noticed.

Working with a mirror, you can make them look like a timeless antique by the right application of a bit of etching cream.

Turn your windows or entry door into a work of art with your own glass etchings.

Instructions to etch your own glass windows:

1. Begin by cleaning the surface you want to etch so that it is crystal clear.
2. Next taking Contac paper, cover the surface of the glass.
3. Place the design you want to use behind the glass and trace it onto your glass.
4. Using an exactor knife or sharp scalper cut away the Contac paper from the areas you are going to apply the etching cream to.
5. Go around the area that you cut out, making sure all of the Contac paper is stuck tightly at the edges of the cuts to prevent leakage of the etching solution under the Contac paper.
6. Using gloves and a paper towel, apply etching cream to the area that is to be etched. This cream is an acid, so be certain not to touch it directly with your hands. Wear some type of hand protection.
7. Usually in about ten minutes the etching cream is ready to be rinsed.
8. Run it under cold water to completely rinse it.
9. The design should be well etched into the glassware and ready to go.
10. Don’t leave the etching cream on for too long. Be certain to wear hand protection, and use a well ventilated area to do the craft.
11. If you use too little etching cream your area of design will appear streaky and not well etched.
12. Make sure that you use enough to coat the area to be etched.

Victorian wine glasses can be great fun to collect.

Needless to say, because of delicacy it’s not as easy to find intact wine sets as one might think, unless granny kept them neatly tucked away in an attic.

And, in fact, this is a good place to start hunting for your treasures.

Collectors in this niche often begin with a family heirloom that sets the tone for the whole collection.

Others may find a grouping for their personal dining and get hooked. In either case, the rarity of your wine glass determines its value more so than the age.

Also, chips in glasses typically decrease their value by half, and dramatically depreciate the set.

As you’re shopping its good to know that this period’s wine glasses feature wide bases that are typically as large as and sometimes larger than the bowl. Small foots often imply an imposter, knock off or a fake.

Another reason for smaller bases might have been to fix the glass foot, so this isn’t always a “sure” warning, but its one worth heeding.

Vintage wine glasses come in a few sizes. The typical red wine goblet ranges form 6-9 ounces. Ball-shaped glasses for red wine hold 10-12 ounces. White wine glasses are usually smaller (4-6 ounces).

For those wanting a well-rounded collection, also watch for 8 ounce wine glasses that may be used for any type of wine. The glasses were designed in these sizes for very specific purposes. For example, the white wine glass helps keep the wine cold, keeping warm hands further down the stem.

Red and green are both common Victorian wine glass colors.

Tinted wine glasses were among those enjoyed, but have gone a bit out of favor because the tinting doesn’t allow the wine’s natural colors through.

The most popular colors to watch for in this regard include cranberry, Bristol blue and green, turquoise, Uranium glass, and Sowerby blue. As for patterns, the traditional grape and vine pattern is the classic for wine!